Tag: Needlework & Textiles

Masterpieces of English Embroidery at the V & A

The Syon Cope, circa 1310-20 © Victoria & Albert Museum‘Opus Anglicanum: Masterpieces of English Embroidery’ is a remarkable exhibition at the V&A in London which displays the heights of English Medieval and Renaissance embroidery before the Reformation.

Medieval English Christian Art included not only paintings, stained glass windows and illuminated manuscripts but also exquisitely produced textiles which we term today as Opus Anglicanum, Latin for English work.

At the heart of the exhibition are an exemplary display of Gothic church vestments and altar fronts.

The Chichester Constable Chasuble, circa 1335-45 © The Metropolitan Museum of Art

The story told by the scenes on the Chichester Constable Chasuable are pertinent to the Christmas season. The Virgin Mary is depicted crowned and with sceptre as well as in a scene from the Annunciation where she is told by the Angel Gabriel that she will bear a child born of the Holy Spirit. Framed within the tiers of Gothic arches the story of the Epiphany is told where Jesus Christ is revealed to the Gentiles through the Magi, the three Wise Men, who have followed the star to Bethlehem where they find him in a stable. In this scene they kneel before Christ as they offer their gifts of Gold, Frankincense and Myrrh whilst above them the star and angels can be seen. Chasubles are still worn by Priests today when they celebrate the Eucharist.

The Jesse Cope (detail), circa 1310-25 © Victoria & Albert Museum
The Jesse Cope (detail), circa 1310-25 © Victoria & Albert Museum

Copes are worn by Bishops and Priests for processions. Two Medieval copes can be seen here. The Jesse Cope unites Jesus with the line of David and the design incorporates statuesque angels and saints as can be seen in the detail illustrated here. The embroidery on The Syon Cope is worked in silver-gilt and silver thread in split, cross and plait stitches. Once again scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary are told within borders decorated with winged seraphs and angels bearing crowns.

These early 14th century textile vestments allow us to glimpse the beauty of the arts in pre-Reformation England. Indeed, the quality of English needlework was highly prized throughout Christendom. It is surprising to observe so many rare masterpieces of early English needlework and to reflect upon how many examples survived the turbulent Tudor Reformation in this country.

Epiphany marks twelfth night, the end of the Christmas season. The New Year and Epiphany will be celebrated in churches across Sussex in the coming Sundays. Priests will be robed in Chasubles, as they have been since the earliest times, as they celebrate the Eucharist marking these important stories which are common to us all.

‘Opus Anglicanum: Masterpieces of English Embroidery’ runs at the V&A in London until Sunday 5th February 2017. For more information go to www.vam.ac.uk.

The V&A is to be congratulated on this jewel-like exhibition and it should definitely be one of your New Year resolutions to see it.

By Rupert Toovey, a senior director of Toovey’s, the leading fine art auction house in West Sussex, based on the A24 at Washington. Originally published in the West Sussex Gazette.

Hidden Antiquarian’s Collection Revealed

A group of antiquarian objects including: an Elizabeth I indenture on vellum, hung with the second Great Wax Seal, used between 1586-1603 and a 17th Century silkwork and rosewood banded table cabinet
A group of antiquarian objects including: an Elizabeth I indenture on vellum, hung with the second Great Wax Seal, used between 1586-1603 and a 17th Century silkwork and rosewood banded table cabinet

An important single-owner collection will be sold at auction by Toovey’s, at their Washington salerooms, on Tuesday 14th June 2016. This exceptional private collection reflects the diverse interests of a very private gentleman collector. The collection has never been seen by the public.

The connoisseur’s eye of this gifted antiquarian is apparent in the quality and breadth of an eclectic group of fine collectors’ items, needleworks, ceramics, furniture and silver dating from the 16th century to the present day.

All good collections, however varied, must reflect the personality of their collector. The objects in this collection clearly represents a lifetime of delighting in the aesthetic value, and narratives bound up with the history that objects represent.

Take, for example, the Elizabeth I indenture on vellum, hung with the second Great Wax Seal, designed by Nicholas Hilliard, which was used between 1586 and 1603. Nicholas Hilliard was a goldsmith and limner. He painted remarkable portrait miniatures, with a very English voice, of members of the courts of Elizabeth I and James I. His paintings provide a remarkable window into the Tudor world.

The seal dates from the time of the Babington Plot of 1586 which sought to assassinate Elizabeth I and replace her with the imprisoned, Catholic, Mary, Queen of Scots. Mary wrote from captivity in support of the plot but her letter was intercepted. Elizabeth is said to have initially resisted calls for, her cousin, Mary’s death. But these events would result not only in Mary’s execution but also the death of her suitor, the Duke of Norfolk.

This historical narrative is united with the exquisite 16th Century ebonized and verre églomisé table chest which is reputed to have belonged to Mary, Queen of Scots. The drawer fronts and sides are inset with glass panels and ebonized astragals, backed with coloured papers decorated with birds, leaves and flowers, mirrored hearts and stars.

The needleworks and textiles are amongst the earliest and finest pieces in the collection.

A 16th Century ebonized and verre églomisé table chest reputed to have belonged to Mary, Queen of Scots
A 16th Century ebonized and verre églomisé table chest reputed to have belonged to Mary, Queen of Scots

The 17th Century and later silkwork and rosewood banded table cabinet’s hinged lid and sides are finely worked in coloured silks on an ivory silk ground. The figures and landscapes are joyful. So, too, are the small, fine needlework panel and purse. One is decorated with figures delighting in a garden and the other with birds, flowers and lemons.

A pair of late wing back armchairs in the 17th century taste, upholstered in overall verdure tapestry panels
A pair of late wing back armchairs in the 17th century taste, upholstered in overall verdure tapestry panels

This gifted collector’s love and eye for textiles is echoed in the pair of wing back armchairs in late 17th Century taste. The verdure tapestry panel upholstery is complimented by the gilded bases.

A fine 17th Century stumpwork rectangular panel depicting a group of five ladies, representing the senses
A fine 17th Century stumpwork rectangular panel depicting a group of five ladies, representing the senses

The 17th Century stumpwork rectangular panel, depicting an allegorical group of five ladies representing the senses, is set against the backdrop of a delightful hillocky landscape with citadel. It is a particularly fine example of needlework of the period.

Accompanying passionate collectors in their pursuit of acquiring new acquisitions and sharing their collections with them remains one of the great privileges of my life as an auctioneer.

This exceptional private collection reflects the diverse interests of a very private gentleman, a collector whose friendship I have valued for more than thirty-three years. Estimates range from a hundred or two into the thousands of pounds. The sale provides a remarkable opportunity to view and acquire objects rarely seen at auction today. I hope to see you at the sale!

For more information on the sale visit www.tooveys.com or telephone 01903 891955.